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When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.